Pilbara Adventures

It's race day in Derby, and we're going to the races. Ash, Maz and i got the courtesy bus from our caravan park into the track and had our first drinks at lunch. We put our bets on the 5 races and settled in on the grassy lawn under the sun kicking back taking in the day. Maz and i were a bit hit and miss but Ash was on a roll winning in every race, helping out her drinking cause for the day;) They have a special licence for two-up which was played with 50's flying everywhere and us just watching on. A great day and night out with Maz even filling her tent haha. It was then farewell to Derby, via the Prison Boab Tree and hello to Broome.

The Prison Boab Tree where they held prisoners overnight before walking into Derby

Expensive but beautiful. We watched sunsets on Cable Beach while playing soccer and frisbee, caught up with Cam and Sarah, had cheap Tuesday pizzas in the carpark and overpriced thai the other. We then all decided to do the offroad trip upto Cape Leveque and Maz invited a guy she'd met earlier in her travels, Ben. Although we'd been warned, this was the roughest and most corrugated road that we had driven on our whole trip yet... and we took Carmen! It was more than worth it when we got up there though. One of those true postcard kind of places, everywhere you looked a vibrant colour strikes your eyes and you just sit back and take it in. We had an arvo swim at the beach on the east side and fishing and sunset on the west side that day. Ben left early the next day but we stayed and visited Cygnet Bay where they cultivate pearls and One Arm Point, a small community right at the tip where we visited a Trochus Shell hatchery and watched the reef sharks dance in the ocean. Some more (unsuccessful) fishing, red wine and cards that night. We did move a little further south the next day to Middle Lagoon and stayed two nights. We made the most of the calm, warm weather the first day tanning on the beach, snorkelling and shell hunting along the endless coastal beach with shells sprawled all over it. The wind picked up pretty fiercely overnight which made Rhonda and Carmen shake all night and all of us sleep pretty restlessly. We decided to drive to Whale Song and Two Moons cafe close by to chill, beach walk and shell collect again. Our first attempt at damper in the cast iron pot for lunch didnt turn out to bad and a roaring fire, red wine and curry for dinner was lovely. Ash and Maz were highly amused when i managed to fall out of my camp chair too that night! It was then back to Broome where we chose a different caravan park on the east side of town namely to
see the staircase to the moon phenomenon which coincided with some night markets very close by. We also visited Gantheaume Point where we saw dinosaur footprints, Matso's Brewery where we got a great tasting paddle, listened to some live music in the courtyard and then took some takeaways and drove Gina up the north end of Cable Beach with all the other 4WD's for another WA sunset special. We spent the next morning waiting for our computer to be fixed which was going to cost as much as its original price even though it was just the screen needing to be replaced.

Frisbee and beach soccer in Broome

One Arm Point beach hut

Sunset fishing at Kooljaman

The colours were just amazing at Cape Leveque

Nearly a full moon rise as the sunset

Wine and crackers at Middle Lagoon

Beagle Bay church, made almost entirely of mother of pearl shells

Dinosaur prints at Gantheaume Point

Staircase to the moon

Exploring Chinatown and icecreams made it go fast and we were back on the road by lunch heading south to a freecamp. Sharing a free rest stop with several other travellers, frisbee in the gravel and easy risotto for dinner. It was off to Port Hedland next where we setup camp at the Golf Club overflow and Ash arranged to catch up with a family friend/old next door neighbour/cousin/brother from another mother, Bryan to watch game 2 of origin (even though NRL is on no ones agenda in WA unless your from east). They put on a free bbq, NSW wrapped up the series and we drank plenty into the night to celebrate. A slow morning start but we got to Roeburn visitors centre just before lunch and they were the loveliest and most helpful info centre weve come across. We checked out the museum which was the old gaol back in the day and then drove upto Point Samson where we had a ripper of a hangover cure lunch at the Beach Tavern, plus stunning views. We splurged and decided to stay the night too, at a very lovely caravan park, with grassy sites, a 2 min stroll to Honeymoon Cove beach, darts, great amenities, a fishing spot where we caught a fish and a cinema room where we watched P.S I love you. Next day we were off to Karratha and Dampier, unfortunately booked out though and caravan parks being grossly overpriced we visited the waterfront of Dampier, saw the statue of 'Red dog' and then headed into Millstream-Chichester National Park. Arriving on dark, setting up and settling into a night of cards was a nice way to end the day. We drove around the next day to see some sights including the McKenzie Spring 4km walk(which was dry), morning tea at Python Pool, a 2km walk up Mt. Herbert and lunch at Deep Reach along the river near camp. We also did a short trail around the homestead at our camp and Mazza cooked us up some delicious savoury crepes for dinner.

Honeymoon Cove, Point Samson

Red Dog statue, please watch if you already haven't:)

We made it to the top of Mt Herbert, M-C NP

Ash by the edge of Python Pool

We were then off to Karinjini National Park with a few detours, one being Hammersley Gorge (part of the NP but 150km to back track, and where Ash swam in freezing water in her bra and pants) and two being Tom Price to replenish our food/water stocks and petrol. We booked in 3 nights to allow us 2 full days and a half if we required to see it all. First was Dale gorge where we walked the rim and then down into it passing by Fortescue Falls and having a chilli swim in Fern Pool. At the other end of the gorge was Circular Pool, a much colder waterhole but just as beautiful. A short drive to Kalamina Gorge in the afternoon with another gorge walk and $2 showers at the info centre on the way home, early to bed for our next day of adventures. Excited to see more of this magical place we got off relatively early to be one of the first in Weano Gorge. This then led to lower Weano where we had to wade through waist deep water and then down a steep rock face into Handrail Pool, Ash swam, Maz slipped in and i took in the natural beauty all around haha a great view from the junction lookouts of Oxer and Weano Gorges then into Hancock Gorge after lunch. I waited behind with a dodgy shoulder while Ash and Maz waded in high thigh deep, cold water and spider walked down to Kermits Pool. My legs were getting tired so we drove to Knox Lookout and then Joffre Gorge, where Ash and Maz did a short walk at the latter, finishing off our grand self drive/walk/hike/wade/swim tour of Karinjini NP. It was our biggest day of driving the next day through the Pilbara (619km) with it being both a vast region of red dirt, empty plains, endless railway lines and then the aqua blue/green ocean over your right shoulder, magical gorges and wild animals dotted along the way. The Pilbara was a very special part of our trip so far and we ended at Bullara Station just shy of the coastline with their open roofed bathrooms, horses, goats and camembert cheese and bread on the fire:)Much love Soph and Ash xxx

 

                                 

One of the many 2-3km long Rio Tinto trains hauling iron ore

Hammersley Gorge

Circular Pool from above

Fortescue Falls

Raincoat selfies

Ash and I under  a waterfall in Fern Pool

Lovebirds in a tree

Circular Pool in the gorge

Ash and Maz gorge walking

Wading through the freezing water

Climbing into Handrail Pool

Inside Handrail Pool

Junction lookout views

Maz spider walking

Kermits Pool

Bullara Station sunset with the animals

And across the Gibb we went

So Ash and I are on the road again and it feels so good. We've even got a travel companion, Marion from France, but ill get to that later. Our visit home at easter was great and we packed so much in but we are glad to be in the nomad life again.
We left Darwin, not going far with Danny, Laura and the kids to Dundee Lodge. A great beach town with good weather, cold beer and great camping. We spent our time here fishing, playing bocce and cricket, toasting marshmallows on our fire, drinking and even having a go at trivia (but unsuccessfully winning the jug of beer). It was then farewell to part of our Darwin family and to finish off Litchfield National Park.

Our setup at Dundee

A cold one while watching the sunset at Dundee

This was our 3rd visit so we'd seen a fair bit, but this time we got to camp overnight. We climbed down the 100 or so steps to Florence Falls for a refreshing swim and chillout by the falls. On our way back up we just missed the icecream van that was packing up but had a jam back at camp and listened to nature until going to bed. Unfortunately Tolmer Falls was closed which we planned to do in the morning so just headed south to Douglas Hot Springs. Here we had lunch, a swim in the springs and then drove a little further south to Edith Falls. Before sunset we explored the upper pools and were treated to some lovely swimming holes and some rapids.

A swim at Florence Falls

A dip in Douglas Hot Springs

Our beautiful sunset swim at Edith Falls

The next day we stopped in Katherine for some supplies and made a few phone calls before hitting the Victoria Hwy west. We made it to a small campground on the hwy and just set up Rhonda for a quick getaway the next morning. It was over the W.A border at 9:30am which actually meant 8:00am with the time difference haha. Quarantine made us chuck out some fruit and veg and then we drove across to Kunanurra. The Gibb River Road (GRR) was our next adventure in mind so we talked to the lovely people at the Info centre, got the maps we needed and decided to do it. To save some back tracking we spent a night at Lake Argyle with its magnificent views and scenery and two nights at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park to see the Bungle Bungles. As the road in was quite rough with water crossings we opted for a tour that took us all the way in, several walks, lunch, ride back and a campfire dinner. This is where we met Marion, Cam and Sarah. We got talking and found out Marion wanted to do the GRR but Cam's van wasn't appropriate, so we got rid of some shit we hadn't used since we started the trip, downsized a few things and offered her a ride with us, needless to say she jumped at the chance:-)

Our quick setup with Rhonda

The infinity pool at Lake Argyle

Crossing into Western Australia (our 4th state/territory)

Ash floating around in Molly Springs near Kunanurra

Walking into the Bungle Bungles

Mad tourist shot

The Cathedral in the Bungle Bungles

Walking into Echidna Chasm at the Bungle Bungles

Sarah, Cam and Marion (aka Maz/Mazza/crazy frenchie)

We stocked back up at Kunanurra and hit the GRR with our first stop being El Questro Wilderness Park. We started the next day with a 10km walk through a sandy creek bed, over creek croosings (and falling in), mountain climbing, and rock climbing to some beautiful pools called Champagne Springs. We had to take the same trail back so we were pretty knackered that night and it was early to bed. We chose to take a guided tour the next day to see more and it ended up just being us 3 so it felt like a private tour. We got to go further into the gorges, see a few extra spots, go on a river cruise, seafood lunch, feed archer fish and Ash spotted a croc on the cruise which won her a bottle of champagne. Most of the station crew had the night off that night and there was some live entertainment so we drank our champas, some vodkas and headed up to the bar to drink, dance, sit around the fire and laugh the night away. We made some good contacts here and would love to visit back here one day. Hungover as hell, we didn't talk much the next day and packing up was like death. We did eventually make it to Emma Gorge though for a swim and awesome burgers for a late lunch. Just up the road to Home Valley Station and we were all in bed by 6pm, yes it was still a little light outside!

We finally get to the start of the Gibb River Road

A big Boab tree, approx. 800+ years old

Champagne Springs for a swim

We waded through water and rock climbed to get to El Questro Gorge

Relaxing in Zebedee Springs, about 30 degrees

About to hit the water on our sunset cruise, Wesh baby!

Emma Gorge

Crossing the famous Pentecost River

Next day we stopped in at Ellenbrae Station for some of their famous scones and continued on the GRR until we reached Mt Barnett Roadhouse where fuel was $2.50L, the most we've paid yet! We camped a few km's behind the roadhouse at Manning Gorge. As we pulled up we could hear creaky noises coming from Carmen's wheel and suspected we'd done a wheel bearing but we left it until the morning as it was getting dark quickly. In the morning it turned out we had a flat tyre and the bearing was partially damaged. Not to worry we spent the day at a couple more swimming holes and stopped by the only tyre guy on the GRR, Neville from 'Over the Range Tyre and Repairs' to get some advice. Nev sent us on our way with the kit and grease we needed and suggested we ask around camp to get the bearing moveable and so we did. Robert our friendly neighbour happen to be a diesel mechanic in his earlier days and was kind enough to get our bearing greased enough to get back to Nev and help put the spare on by dark:-)  In the morning we did Manning Gorge walk where we got to pull ourselves across a river in a little tinny and then a 2-3km walk up and into the gorge. It was spectacular! Lunch back at camp and then to Nev to check over everything properly. He was such a laid back aussie and we loved it. We chatted for ages and even had a drink with him. He told us about the area, how long he'd been working on the GRR and showed us some great photos of places he'd been and the scenery in the wet. He ended up replacing Carmen's wheel bearing and repaired our flat cheaper than in Darwin. If you're ever doing the GRR drop by and say g'day even if you don't need car help:-)

Just paying $2.50 L for petrol on the GRR

Sunset at the Imintji store with Gina by the diesel tanks

Bell Gorge

It's a hard life being a backpacker, hey Maz??!!

Frisbee sunset games

Crocs baking in the sun in Windjana Gorge

Looking into Tunnel Creek

Fishing in the Pentecost River

Having a dip in Manning Gorge

 We left a little later than expected but didn't really mind and made it to a free camp in the dark to spend the night. It was into Bell Gorge the next day which was lovely with the water being a bit cooler though. We then drove to Windjana Gorge, set up camp and played a good game of frisbee as the sunset. We got up early to walk into the gorge and saw some freshwater crocs baking in the banks as the sun peeked in. A short drive to Tunnel Creek where Ash and Maz did the underground walk with a torch through the creek and out the other end. Many many years ago an aboriginal outlaw hid in the tunnel from police for nearly 3 years! The GRR had come to an end as we made our way further west into Derby. Hot water, reception and a nice sunset at camp. The GRR was one of our favourite adventures yet!

More updates to come soon, love Soph and Ash