Monday 28 July 2014

And across the Gibb we went

So Ash and I are on the road again and it feels so good. We've even got a travel companion, Marion from France, but ill get to that later. Our visit home at easter was great and we packed so much in but we are glad to be in the nomad life again.
We left Darwin, not going far with Danny, Laura and the kids to Dundee Lodge. A great beach town with good weather, cold beer and great camping. We spent our time here fishing, playing bocce and cricket, toasting marshmallows on our fire, drinking and even having a go at trivia (but unsuccessfully winning the jug of beer). It was then farewell to part of our Darwin family and to finish off Litchfield National Park.

Our setup at Dundee

A cold one while watching the sunset at Dundee

This was our 3rd visit so we'd seen a fair bit, but this time we got to camp overnight. We climbed down the 100 or so steps to Florence Falls for a refreshing swim and chillout by the falls. On our way back up we just missed the icecream van that was packing up but had a jam back at camp and listened to nature until going to bed. Unfortunately Tolmer Falls was closed which we planned to do in the morning so just headed south to Douglas Hot Springs. Here we had lunch, a swim in the springs and then drove a little further south to Edith Falls. Before sunset we explored the upper pools and were treated to some lovely swimming holes and some rapids.

A swim at Florence Falls

A dip in Douglas Hot Springs

Our beautiful sunset swim at Edith Falls

The next day we stopped in Katherine for some supplies and made a few phone calls before hitting the Victoria Hwy west. We made it to a small campground on the hwy and just set up Rhonda for a quick getaway the next morning. It was over the W.A border at 9:30am which actually meant 8:00am with the time difference haha. Quarantine made us chuck out some fruit and veg and then we drove across to Kunanurra. The Gibb River Road (GRR) was our next adventure in mind so we talked to the lovely people at the Info centre, got the maps we needed and decided to do it. To save some back tracking we spent a night at Lake Argyle with its magnificent views and scenery and two nights at the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park to see the Bungle Bungles. As the road in was quite rough with water crossings we opted for a tour that took us all the way in, several walks, lunch, ride back and a campfire dinner. This is where we met Marion, Cam and Sarah. We got talking and found out Marion wanted to do the GRR but Cam's van wasn't appropriate, so we got rid of some shit we hadn't used since we started the trip, downsized a few things and offered her a ride with us, needless to say she jumped at the chance:-)

Our quick setup with Rhonda

The infinity pool at Lake Argyle

Crossing into Western Australia (our 4th state/territory)

Ash floating around in Molly Springs near Kunanurra

Walking into the Bungle Bungles

Mad tourist shot

The Cathedral in the Bungle Bungles

Walking into Echidna Chasm at the Bungle Bungles

Sarah, Cam and Marion (aka Maz/Mazza/crazy frenchie)

We stocked back up at Kunanurra and hit the GRR with our first stop being El Questro Wilderness Park. We started the next day with a 10km walk through a sandy creek bed, over creek croosings (and falling in), mountain climbing, and rock climbing to some beautiful pools called Champagne Springs. We had to take the same trail back so we were pretty knackered that night and it was early to bed. We chose to take a guided tour the next day to see more and it ended up just being us 3 so it felt like a private tour. We got to go further into the gorges, see a few extra spots, go on a river cruise, seafood lunch, feed archer fish and Ash spotted a croc on the cruise which won her a bottle of champagne. Most of the station crew had the night off that night and there was some live entertainment so we drank our champas, some vodkas and headed up to the bar to drink, dance, sit around the fire and laugh the night away. We made some good contacts here and would love to visit back here one day. Hungover as hell, we didn't talk much the next day and packing up was like death. We did eventually make it to Emma Gorge though for a swim and awesome burgers for a late lunch. Just up the road to Home Valley Station and we were all in bed by 6pm, yes it was still a little light outside!

We finally get to the start of the Gibb River Road

A big Boab tree, approx. 800+ years old

Champagne Springs for a swim

We waded through water and rock climbed to get to El Questro Gorge

Relaxing in Zebedee Springs, about 30 degrees

About to hit the water on our sunset cruise, Wesh baby!

Emma Gorge

Crossing the famous Pentecost River

Next day we stopped in at Ellenbrae Station for some of their famous scones and continued on the GRR until we reached Mt Barnett Roadhouse where fuel was $2.50L, the most we've paid yet! We camped a few km's behind the roadhouse at Manning Gorge. As we pulled up we could hear creaky noises coming from Carmen's wheel and suspected we'd done a wheel bearing but we left it until the morning as it was getting dark quickly. In the morning it turned out we had a flat tyre and the bearing was partially damaged. Not to worry we spent the day at a couple more swimming holes and stopped by the only tyre guy on the GRR, Neville from 'Over the Range Tyre and Repairs' to get some advice. Nev sent us on our way with the kit and grease we needed and suggested we ask around camp to get the bearing moveable and so we did. Robert our friendly neighbour happen to be a diesel mechanic in his earlier days and was kind enough to get our bearing greased enough to get back to Nev and help put the spare on by dark:-)  In the morning we did Manning Gorge walk where we got to pull ourselves across a river in a little tinny and then a 2-3km walk up and into the gorge. It was spectacular! Lunch back at camp and then to Nev to check over everything properly. He was such a laid back aussie and we loved it. We chatted for ages and even had a drink with him. He told us about the area, how long he'd been working on the GRR and showed us some great photos of places he'd been and the scenery in the wet. He ended up replacing Carmen's wheel bearing and repaired our flat cheaper than in Darwin. If you're ever doing the GRR drop by and say g'day even if you don't need car help:-)

Just paying $2.50 L for petrol on the GRR

Sunset at the Imintji store with Gina by the diesel tanks

Bell Gorge

It's a hard life being a backpacker, hey Maz??!!

Frisbee sunset games

Crocs baking in the sun in Windjana Gorge

Looking into Tunnel Creek

Fishing in the Pentecost River

Having a dip in Manning Gorge

 We left a little later than expected but didn't really mind and made it to a free camp in the dark to spend the night. It was into Bell Gorge the next day which was lovely with the water being a bit cooler though. We then drove to Windjana Gorge, set up camp and played a good game of frisbee as the sunset. We got up early to walk into the gorge and saw some freshwater crocs baking in the banks as the sun peeked in. A short drive to Tunnel Creek where Ash and Maz did the underground walk with a torch through the creek and out the other end. Many many years ago an aboriginal outlaw hid in the tunnel from police for nearly 3 years! The GRR had come to an end as we made our way further west into Derby. Hot water, reception and a nice sunset at camp. The GRR was one of our favourite adventures yet!
More updates to come soon, love Soph and Ash